Describing sounds, smells, leaks and feel so a technician can find the problem
Write a symptom down by what, where, when and how often, describe a leak by color, place and size, know the signs that mean stop driving, and hand the shop a note it can use.
- Start here: the essentials
- Writing a symptom down: what, where, when, how often
- Sounds and feel
- Smells and smoke
- Leaks: color, place and size
- When to stop driving
- Handing it to the shop
- Symptoms in depth: the advisor's write-up, recordings, sources compared
- See it: Gloria's symptom log, and a what-if for Sam
- Practice: one symptom, written and handed over
- Your car
- Check your work
- Knowledge check and scenario
Start here Essentials
This chapter asks you to check whether a symptom means stop driving, write it down the way a technician can use it, and hand it to the shop. It does not diagnose anything.
- Check the stop-driving list first, and stop if any line applies. Brake, steering, smoke and fuel-smell symptoms are reasons to stop and call (when to stop driving).
- Write the symptom on the symptom log: what, where, when and how often. Add since when and whether it is getting worse (writing a symptom down).
- If it is a leak, put cardboard under the car overnight and note the color, the place and the size. (leaks)
- Give the shop the log and ask that the concern go on the work order in your words. Read the work order before you sign it (handing it to the shop).
Minimum time: about 15 minutes to write it down, plus one night for a leak. Done when: the symptom log has the entry with its conditions and a next step, and the shop has it.
Writing a symptom down: what, where, when, how often Understand
A symptom is what you notice: a sound, a smell, a feel, a light, a leak, smoke. A cause is what a technician finds. The gap between the two is where a repair visit goes well or badly. A noise that happens only on cold mornings, or only in right turns, may not happen in the ten minutes a technician has the car, and the more precisely you describe when it happens, the better the chance they find it.
California's Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR), the state agency that licenses repair shops there, puts the questions a technician will ask in its consumer guide: where in the car the sound comes from; when it happens, whether with the engine running, cold, accelerating, braking, turning, or above or at a certain speed; whether you feel vibration in the steering column or the brake pedal; whether the steering pulls to one side; whether the tires wear unevenly; whether fuel economy is falling; and whether you regularly add coolant or oil (California BAR, A Consumer's Guide to Auto Repair). The guide says to be as detailed as possible, not to rush, and not to let yourself be intimidated.
This manual turns those questions into six lines, which are the columns of the symptom log. This manual's convention
| Line | What to write | Example |
|---|---|---|
| What | Sound, smell, feel or vibration, warning light, leak, smoke or steam; then the thing itself in your own words | A high squeal, like a whistle |
| Where | Where on the car it seems to come from: front or rear, left or right, a wheel, under the hood, inside the cabin, through the seat, the pedal or the steering wheel | Front left wheel |
| When | The conditions: cold or warm engine, speed, accelerating, braking, turning (which way), over bumps, in rain, with the air conditioning on | Light braking under 20 mph; stops when I press harder |
| How often | Every time the condition happens, sometimes, once | Every stop for three days |
| Since when | The date or mileage it started, and anything that happened just before (a service, a pothole, a long trip) | Started after the oil change at 98,400 miles |
| Getting worse | Louder, more often, or new conditions; yes, no or not sure | Not sure |
Two rules make the entry useful. First, write what you noticed, not what you think the cause is. "Grinding from the front left when braking" helps a technician; "bad brake pads" sends them looking for the answer you chose. Second, write it the day you notice it and add to it each time it happens, with the odometer reading. A symptom that is getting worse is information the shop needs, and so is one that has stopped.
If you can, describe a sound the way it sounds: a squeal, a squeak, a grind, a click, a tick, a knock, a clunk, a hum, a whine, a hiss, a rattle. Say whether it keeps time with the wheels (faster as the car speeds up) or with the engine (faster as you press the accelerator, even standing still). A recording of the sound helps when it does not happen on demand; the rule for making one is that the driver does not record while driving. A passenger records, or the car is parked. This manual's convention
Sounds and feel
Makers and motor clubs publish plain descriptions of what some sounds and feelings can point to. Read them for what they are: a list of things a technician will check, which helps you describe what you hear. They do not tell you the cause on your car. Convention
Brakes
Chevrolet's owner page on the brake system lists the signs a driver can notice (Chevrolet, About the brake system):
- A chirping, squealing or whistling sound from the brakes. Many brake pads have a wear indicator, a small metal tab that touches the brake rotor when the pad is getting thin and makes that sound on purpose. Some models have an electronic pad-life monitor instead.
- Grinding.
- Stops that take longer than they did.
- A spongy brake pedal, or one that goes down farther than normal.
- Vibration in the brake pedal or the steering wheel when braking.
- The car pulling left or right when braking.
Toyota Canada's page adds that grinding can mean metal-on-metal contact with the pads worn through, and that a soft or mushy pedal can mean a problem with the brake fluid or the lines (Toyota Canada, 5 warning signs). Chevrolet says there are no specific mileage intervals for brake service because wear depends on how the car is driven, which is why these signs and the shop's measurements matter more than a mileage. Brakes, battery, wipers and lights covers the measurements to ask for. Product-specific
Other sounds
AAA Western and Central New York's guide pairs a few sounds with what a mechanic will usually look at (AAA Western and Central New York, Smells and sounds that could mean car trouble):
- A squeal when accelerating: possibly the belt that drives the engine's accessories, the serpentine belt.
- A whine: possibly the power steering.
- A ticking with an exhaust smell: a possible exhaust leak, which AAA says to have looked at right away.
- Grinding or screeching when braking: likely worn pads.
Feel
A vibration, a pull, a change in how the car steers or shifts, or less power is a symptom too, and often a harder one to describe. AAA's guide suggests noting how a vibration changes and where it seems to come from, then telling the mechanic. Useful details: whether it starts at a certain speed and fades above it, whether you feel it in the steering wheel, the seat or the pedal, and whether it changes when you brake, accelerate or coast. BAR adds the slow changes: uneven tire wear, falling fuel economy, and needing to add oil or coolant between services. Each goes on the log as it is noticed. This manual's convention
This chapter does not diagnose. A sound, a smell or a fluid color points to what to tell a technician, not to a cause, and every row of the tables on this page is written that way. Two cars with the same squeal can have different causes, and the same cause can sound different on two cars. What is wrong is settled by the shop's inspection and test, written on the work order as the cause. Any brake, steering, smoke or fuel-smell symptom is a reason to stop and call, not to keep watching: see when to stop driving. Ask the authority
Hybrids and electric cars
An electric car has no engine sound, and a hybrid's engine is often off at low speed, so a noise from the brakes, tires or suspension has less to compete with. Physical principle The same six lines apply. Two things differ. The Department of Energy says regenerative braking greatly reduces brake wear on electric cars, so the brakes do less work, and Tesla's schedule asks owners on salted roads to have the brakes cleaned and lubricated every year or 12,500 miles (Tesla, Vehicle Maintenance); that is Tesla's interval for its own cars, and your maker's schedule gives yours. Product-specific And a hybrid or electric car carries a high-voltage system, marked with orange cables, that the Department of Energy says typically runs at 400 to 1,000 volts (AFDC, Maintenance and Safety of Electric Vehicles). Describe, photograph and report; do not touch orange cables or parts. Hybrids and electric cars covers who services them.
Smells and smoke
A smell is often the first sign of a fluid where it should not be, or something hot that should not be. The table pairs the smells two sources describe with what to tell the shop. The sources are the Car Care Council, an aftermarket industry group, in a release reprinted by the Automotive Service Association's magazine (AutoInc., Your Nose Knows), and AAA Western and Central New York's guide. Convention
| Smell | What the sources say a mechanic may look at | Read it as (a clue to report, not a cause) |
|---|---|---|
| Gasoline | Car Care Council: a possible fuel leak and a possible fire hazard | A clue, not a cause. Stop-driving line: do not drive; call the shop or roadside service |
| Sweet, like syrup | Car Care Council: a coolant leak. AAA: watch the temperature gauge | A clue, not a cause. Note where you smell it and what the temperature gauge shows; do not open a hot radiator cap |
| Burning carpet or hot metal | Car Care Council: brakes, which it calls a safety hazard. AAA: brakes, or a parking brake left on | A clue, not a cause. Check the parking brake is fully off; any brake smell is a stop-driving line |
| Burnt rubber | Car Care Council: a slipping belt or a hose rubbing a pulley; do not reach into a hot engine | A clue, not a cause. Note when (start-up, turning, with the air conditioning on) |
| Hot oil | Car Care Council: oil on the hot exhaust | A clue, not a cause. Note it with any spots under the car and whether you have added oil lately |
| Rotten eggs (sulfur) | Car Care Council and AAA: the catalytic converter or emissions system | A clue, not a cause. Note it with any check engine light |
| Exhaust inside the cabin | AAA: a ticking with an exhaust smell may be an exhaust leak; have it looked at right away | A clue, not a cause. Stop-driving line: open the windows and get it checked; see carbon monoxide below |
The catalytic converter is the part of the exhaust system that cleans the exhaust gases. Its smell is listed here because both sources list it; whether it is the converter is a question for the shop's test, as Warning lights and codes explains for any check engine light that comes with it.
Smoke and steam
Smoke or steam from under the hood, from a wheel or from the exhaust is a stop-driving line in this manual. Pull over where it is safe, turn the engine off, and leave the radiator and coolant caps closed. Kia's 2024 manual warns that hot coolant or steam can cause serious injury, and Mazda says not to open the coolant reservoir cap while the engine is hot (Kia owner's manual, checking the coolant level; Mazda, Car Dashboard Lights Explained). Note the color of the smoke and where it came from, and call. This manual's convention
Leaks: color, place and size
A spot under a parked car is the symptom that is easiest to describe well, because it stays still. Three facts make the description: the color, the place under the car, and the size. AAA Club Alliance's guide to leaks starts with the nose: if it smells like gasoline and you did not spill any at the pump, treat it as serious, do not drive the car, and call a professional mechanic (AAA Club Alliance, Identify Car Leaks Like a Pro). Otherwise it suggests dabbing the spot with a clean white paper towel to see the color and smell it, and noting where under the car it was, which you can match to the diagrams in your owner's manual.
The cardboard check
To see a leak clearly, this manual suggests a sheet of flattened cardboard or white paper under the car overnight. This manual's convention
- Park on a level spot where you can see the ground, with the engine off and the parking brake on.
- Slide the cardboard under the engine area, or wherever you saw the spot, from the side or front. Push it with a broom if needed. Do not crawl or reach under the car.
- In the morning, before moving the car, mark which edge of the cardboard faced the front of the car and which side was the driver's, so the spot's place is fixed.
- Note the color (a white paper towel shows it best), the place (front, middle or rear; left, center or right; near which wheel) and the size (a few drops, a coin, a palm, a puddle). Photograph it with a coin for scale.
- Wash your hands after handling it.
What the colors may be
AAA's guide gives the usual colors and is clear that color alone is not enough: an amber, brown or black spot is likely engine oil, but it may be brake fluid; transmission fluid and power steering fluid are both red; coolant was traditionally green and now comes in other colors. So every row below points to what to tell a technician, not to a cause. Convention
| What you see | What AAA says it may be | Read it as (a clue to report, not a cause) |
|---|---|---|
| Clear, no smell, like water; front, passenger side | Water draining from the air conditioner, which AAA calls normal | A clue, not a cause. Note it after a hot day with the air on; if it is somewhere else, or not like water, report it |
| Amber when fresh, darkening to brown or black; slick | Engine oil, or possibly brake fluid | A clue, not a cause. Report the color, place and size, and whether the oil level is dropping between services |
| Red | Transmission fluid or power steering fluid | A clue, not a cause. Report the color and the place; the place helps tell the two apart |
| Green, yellow, pink or another bright color; slimy; sweet smell | Engine coolant (antifreeze) | A clue, not a cause. Report it with the temperature gauge reading; do not open a hot radiator cap |
| Light brown or clear, darkening with age; near a wheel or under the brake fluid reservoir | Brake fluid, which AAA says needs service immediately | A clue, not a cause. Stop-driving line: do not drive; call |
| Smells of gasoline | A fuel leak | A clue, not a cause. Stop-driving line: do not drive; call a professional |
| A drop or two, on an older car, of anything but brake fluid or fuel | AAA: you may not need a mechanic immediately | A clue, not a cause. Mark the size, check again in a week, and tell the shop at the next visit |
The brake fluid reservoir is usually on the driver's side under the hood, AAA says, and the fluid runs from there to each wheel, so a brake fluid leak can show up near a wheel. Whether your manual asks owners to check the brake fluid level, and how, is in its maintenance section; Oil, fluids and filters covers the owner checks. Product-specific
When to stop driving
Some symptoms go on the log after the car is stopped, not before. This list gathers the makers' red-light instructions and the sources above into the lines this manual treats as stop and call: pull over where it is safe, turn the engine off, and call the shop or your roadside service before driving on. This manual's convention
- A red light your manual says to stop for. Oil pressure, coolant temperature, and the brake warning light with the parking brake released are the common ones; Hyundai says not to drive until low brake fluid is filled, and Chevrolet says to plan for a tow when the engine overheats (Hyundai, warning lights; Chevrolet, warning lights). Warning lights and codes lists them.
- A flashing check engine light, especially with shaking. Follow your manual's instruction for it.
- Any brake symptom: a soft or sinking pedal, grinding, a hard pull when braking, longer stops, a brake smell, a brake fluid leak, or the brake light staying on.
- Any steering symptom: steering that suddenly turns heavy, pulls hard, wanders, or makes a new noise. Volkswagen puts a steering malfunction in its red, stop group of lights.
- A fuel smell or a fuel leak. AAA says not to drive a car that is leaking gas.
- Smoke or steam from under the hood, a wheel or the exhaust.
- Exhaust smell inside the car. See carbon monoxide below.
- On a hybrid or electric car, a high-voltage warning your manual says to stop for, or damage near orange cables or parts.
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a poisonous gas in engine exhaust. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention says it is odorless and colorless, that a small exhaust leak can build up CO inside a car, and that a mechanic should check the car's exhaust system every year (CDC, Carbon Monoxide Poisoning Basics). The smell of exhaust inside the car means exhaust is getting in; CO itself has no smell, so the smell is a warning of a leak, not a measure of the danger. CDC also says not to run a car or truck inside an attached garage, even with the garage door open. Never open a radiator or coolant cap on a hot or running engine: Kia, Mazda and AAA all warn against it.
A symptom that is not on this list still goes to the shop; the list says which ones not to drive on while you wait. If you are not sure whether a line applies, read it the cautious way and call. Ask the shop or your roadside service whether to drive it in or have it towed. Ask the authority
Handing it to the shop
The person you talk to at the counter is the service advisor (also called a service writer or service consultant). Their job, in the task list that ASE's certification test for advisors covers, includes discussing and documenting your concern, reviewing the car's service history, and confirming that the repair order is accurate before getting your authorization (ASE, Automobile Service Consultant (C1) study guide). The document they write is the work order or repair order: the shop's record of the car, your concern, and the work you authorize.
Technician training programs accredited by the ASE Education Foundation teach that a work order records the customer concern, the cause and the correction, which the standards call the three Cs (ASE Education Foundation, Automobile Program Standards). The concern is the line that carries your symptom. If it says "check noise," the technician starts from two words. If it says "squeal, front left, light braking under 20 mph, every stop for three days, started after the oil change," they start from your log. Convention
At the counter
- Hand over the log. Print the symptom log, show it on your phone, or read it out. Give the recording if you have one.
- Ask that the concern go on the work order in your words. Read it back before you leave. This manual's convention
- Ask what happens next. BAR's guide notes that the advisor probably cannot diagnose the problem on the spot, and suggests asking questions, asking for clarification of any answer you do not understand, and making sure the shop has a number where it can reach you and says when it will call.
- Ask for a call before any work, and before any amount over the estimate. The questions for the shop sheet carries these at drop-off, with the question about what diagnosis costs.
- If it happens only at speed or in certain conditions, say so and ask whether the technician can drive the car under those conditions, or with you. This manual's convention
- Read the work order before you sign it. BAR's guide says: do not sign a blank work order. A signature on a blank order authorizes work you have not seen. Ask the authority
In California, BAR says a shop must give a written estimate before doing any work. That is one state's rule; other states differ, and Estimate terms lists examples and how to find your own state's. What the estimate says, and what you authorize, is in Reading a repair estimate.
After the visit
When the invoice comes, copy your concern, the cause and the correction to the service log, and write the outcome on the symptom log: fixed, not found, or recheck. A symptom the shop could not reproduce stays open on the log; if it comes back, the new entry and the old one together are what the next visit needs. If the shop gives you a list of further work, Discussing recommendations covers the four questions to ask about each item.
Symptoms in depth: the advisor's write-up, recordings, sources compared Go deeper
What the advisor is tested on
ASE's C1 study guide lists what an advisor is expected to do across a visit: discuss and document the concern, review service history, identify recommended service from the maintenance schedule, confirm the repair order and get authorization, explain the invoice including declined or deferred work, and address the original concern with the customer. One of its sample questions asks what an advisor should do when a customer describes a brake noise and asks what it will cost; the keyed answer is to explain that a technician will need to evaluate the car, not to quote an average price. That is the same line this chapter draws: a description is not a diagnosis, even at the counter.
A trade article in WardsAuto, reporting an industry speaker at a webinar ASE hosted, makes the same point from the shop's side: the repair order centers on the concern, the cause and the correction, and the advisor's best questions are what is happening, when it happens and how often (WardsAuto, Service staffers should act like Lt. Columbo). This manual's six lines are those questions, plus where, since when and whether it is getting worse.
Recordings
A recording helps when a sound comes and goes. Twenty to thirty seconds is enough. Make it one of two ways: a passenger holds the phone near where the sound seems to come from while you drive under the conditions that cause it, on a quiet road; or the car is parked, if the sound happens at idle, on start-up or when turning the wheel. Say into the recording the speed and what you are doing ("20 mph, braking lightly"). The driver does not hold or start the phone while driving, and nobody holds a phone near moving belts, fans or wheels, or reaches under the car. Write "recorded" on the log, and send the file to the shop or play it at the counter. This manual's convention
Sources compared
The sources agree on the broad lines and differ in detail. For a sweet smell, the Car Care Council names a coolant leak and AAA Western and Central New York says to watch the temperature gauge. For a burning smell near the wheels, the Car Care Council says brakes; AAA adds the parking brake left on. For brake pulsation, Toyota Canada says pads worn or warped, and Chevrolet's certified service page on brakes says rotor thickness variation causes it and that it is not caused by warping. For leaks, AAA's guide is the one source we found that names colors, and it says itself that color alone is not enough. None of these sources says any of these lines is a diagnosis, which is why each row on this page ends with the same words.
See it: Gloria's symptom log, and a what-if for Sam See it
Gloria Hernández is a fictional person; every fact about her and her car is invented for this manual. She is 71 and uses she/her, and drives a 2011 gasoline midsize sedan with 162,000 miles. Her son, Luis Hernández (he/him), helps by phone.
Known: the check engine light came on steady two weeks ago; a parts store read a misfire code for one cylinder. On the highway the light began flashing and the car shook. A flashing light with shaking is on the stop-driving list, so she left the highway and had the car towed. Her symptom log entry, written after the car was stopped: what, warning light; describe, "check engine light steady for two weeks; began flashing on the highway and the car shook"; where, dashboard, and the shaking felt through the seat; when, steady all the time, flashing at highway speed under load; how often, steady constantly, flashing once; since when, two weeks; getting worse, yes; stop-driving line applies, yes; recorded, no, because she was driving alone and stopping came first; told, Luis by phone, and the tow to the shop.
Assumed: that the shaking and the flashing light are one problem, not two. Under that assumption one diagnosis covers both. The shop's diagnosis, $140 for one hour, finds a failed ignition coil on that cylinder, with an estimate of $310 to replace it; that is consistent with the assumption but does not prove it. The shop's test drive after the repair, and Gloria's own next drives, settle it: if the shaking is gone, one problem; if not, a new log entry.
Open: whether the catalytic converter was damaged. The shop marks it "watch" until a test after the repair and a few days of driving, and Gloria puts it on the recommendations sheet with the recheck. At the counter the concern goes on the work order in her words, from the log. Luis, on the phone, asks her to have the advisor read it back. Her outcome line, once the invoice comes: "failed ignition coil, one cylinder; converter watch, recheck after a few days."
Sam Okafor is a fictional person; every fact here is invented for this manual. Sam is 27, uses they/them, and drives a 2021 electric hatchback on roads salted every winter. Their maker's schedule (fictional) lists brake cleaning every year in salted areas.
A what-if, not one of Sam's facts: suppose that after a winter Sam hears a scrape from the rear when braking gently at low speed. Known: it is a brake symptom, so it is on the stop-driving list; Sam calls the shop before more driving. The six lines: scrape; rear, side not sure; gentle braking under 15 mph; most stops; since the first warm week; not sure if worse. A friend in the passenger seat had recorded it on the drive when it started. Assumed: that the yearly brake cleaning was done; the seller's three invoices may or may not show it, and under that assumption the noise is not from skipped maintenance. Open: the cause, settled by the shop's brake inspection; whether the cleaning was done, settled by the invoices or the maker's dealer records, in Your service records. Nobody under the car but the technician, and nobody near the orange high-voltage parts.
- California BAR, A Consumer's Guide to Auto Repair (PDF): the questions a technician asks, and the paperwork rules for California.
- AAA Club Alliance, Identify Car Leaks Like a Pro: colors, places, and why color alone is not enough.
- Chevrolet, About the brake system: the brake signs a driver can notice.
- CDC, Carbon Monoxide Poisoning Basics: why an exhaust leak matters and what CDC says about garages.
Practice: one symptom, written and handed over Practice
Minimum: one symptom on the symptom log with all six lines and a next step, the stop-driving list checked, and for a leak, one night of cardboard. Time: about 15 minutes, plus one night for a leak. Materials: the symptom log (or paper), the odometer reading, a flattened cardboard box or sheets of white paper, a white paper towel, a phone camera, and a coin for scale.
- Check the stop-driving list. If a line applies, the car stays parked and the next step is a call.
- Write the six lines. What, where, when, how often, since when, getting worse. Write what you noticed, not a cause.
- For a leak, do the cardboard check. One night, then color, place and size, with a photo and a coin.
- Write the next step. Which shop, when you will call, and the question you will ask first.
- Hand it over. Give the log to the advisor, ask that the concern go on the work order in your words, read it back, and do not sign a blank order.
Make a recording. If the sound comes and goes, have a passenger record 20 to 30 seconds under the conditions that cause it, or record with the car parked if it happens at idle; say the speed and what you are doing into the recording, and tick "recorded" on the log. Close the loop. When the invoice comes, copy concern, cause and correction to the service log and write the outcome on the symptom log.
Your car Your car
Check your work Check your work
Criteria
- Does the entry say what you noticed, not what you think the cause is?
- Does it have all six lines, with the conditions under "when" specific enough that someone else could make the symptom happen?
- For a leak: are the color, the place and the size written, with a photo?
- Did you check the stop-driving list, and is the answer on the log?
- Is there a next step with a shop and a date, and did the concern go on the work order in your words?
Worked example
Gloria's entry passes: it names the light, the shaking, where she felt it, the conditions, how often, since when, that it is getting worse, and that the stop-driving line applied. It does not say "bad spark plug" or "bad coil"; it says what she saw and felt, and the cause line waits for the shop. The converter is written as open, with the recheck. Sam's what-if passes too: the six lines are there, the recording was made by a passenger, the brake symptom triggered a call before more driving, and the maintenance question is marked open with the records that settle it.
Common mistakes
- Writing the cause instead of the symptom. "Needs pads" is a conclusion; "grinding, front left, every stop" is a description a technician can use.
- Leaving out the conditions. "Makes a noise" without when, how often and at what speed gives the shop nothing to reproduce.
- Reading a fluid color as a diagnosis. AAA says an amber or brown spot may be oil or brake fluid. Report the color and the place.
- Watching a brake or steering symptom for a few more days. These are stop-and-call lines.
- Recording while driving. A passenger records, or the car is parked.
- Signing a work order with the work left blank. BAR says not to.
What is still unresolved
The cause of any symptom is settled by the shop's inspection and test, and what the repair costs by its written estimate, read with Reading a repair estimate. A warning light that comes with a symptom is read with Warning lights and codes. The brake measurements to ask for are in Brakes, battery, wipers and lights. Which of the shop's recommendations to say yes to is in Discussing recommendations, and a shop that will not take your concern seriously is a reason to read Choosing a shop and handling problems.